Anti-ageing and discriminatory beauty standards

The concept of anti-ageing remains a persistent and influential beauty standard. When discussing inclusivity in fashion, older people are often left out of the conversation. According to Lixia Yang, a psychology professor who specialises in ageing and culture, the retention of a useful appearance is desirable because it symbolises a period for pursuing dreams and future-planning. This prevailing belief often dictates that once someone reaches a certain age, they should limit their fashion choices to subdued colours, adopt flattering styles and opt for conservative clothing. Ageing is frequently depicted in a negative light, especially in industries where appearance plays a significant role.

What is ‘grandmacore’?

‘Grandmacore’ is a relatively recent term that refers to a nostalgic and sentimental aesthetic or lifestyle that celebrates elements associated with the stereotypical image of a grandmother or an older generation. It often incorporates a mix of vintage or old-fashioned elements, including fashion, decor, and activities, as well as an appreciation for traditional values and simplicity. Grandmacore can be seen as a reaction to fast-paced, modern life and a desire to embrace a slower, more comforting, and wholesome way of living.

Social media and ageism

The #GrandmaCore hashtag on TikTok has garnered over 200 million views, celebrating an aesthetic that champions matronly styles, sensible shoes, longer skirts and . This sartorial aesthetic, which began gaining popularity in 2021, emphasizes matronliness, featuring sensible shoes, knee-length skirts and clashing patterns. Fashion icons like Bella Hadid and Emma Chamberlain have been spotted sporting such outfits. High fashion has not been left unaffected with Miu Miu’s Fall 2023 runway show fully embracing the aesthetic. Notably, however, this older-inspired show featured only youthful, conventionally attractive models.

Additionally, TikTok’s “ageing” filter has over 10 billion views. This AI effect provides users with a glimpse of what they might look like as they age, featuring drooping cheeks, thin lips, and wrinkles. This prompted two responses. The first was a panicked one, producing skincare routines and advice on preventing ageing. The second response involved young people coming to terms with the idea of growing old. However, this reflected a celebration of ‘older features’ only when they could be conveniently removed. Both of these responses have led to accusations of ageism.

Lack of age-diversity in the fashion industry

The ‘anti-ageing’ market is now estimated to be worth approximately $85 billion and is steadily growing. This same attitude is visible in the fashion industry, where age diversity on runways is notably lacking. Wen it is present, it often features celebrity guests from other industries or supermodels from the ‘90s. On the contrary, mature models face a more challenging path to recognition compared to their younger counterparts, a discrepancy that has worsened in the post-pandemic era.

A few older celebrities, such as Maggie Smith who is fronting Loewe’s SS24 campaign, are becoming beauty brand ambassadors, representing a positive shift. However, a 2021 CNN report highlighted a concerning trend of teenagers worrying about wrinkles, reflecting the prevalence of age-related concerns among younger generations.

Even though the trend has the effect of bringing elements of elderly style to the forefront of fashion, it can inadvertently perpetuate the idea that all grandmothers adhere to a particular fashion aesthetic. Dianne Gouveia and Karian Nicholas, aged 60 and 55 respectively, who run the fashion blog “50s fine”, are challenging this notion. They embrace bold colours and edgy designs to demonstrate that fashion transcends age boundaries. They see grandmacore as a trend rather than a method of recognising and celebrating older people.